| Written By Lara Wadsworth |
Turn a patch of grass, weeds, or turf into a ready-to-plant garden bed with the rototilling method. While no-till gardens have been gaining popularity, completely transforming your growing area from thick turf to a thriving vegetable plot requires a bit of work. Tilling is one of the fastest ways to get the job done. We are diving into the benefits and the disadvantages, along with instructions on how to transform your space by tilling the grass to make way for a plentiful harvest.
People who routinely need to rotate soil and plant new crops will have a tiller of some kind. Whether you call it a tiller, a rototiller, or a cultivator, they are all essentially the same thing with slight variations. This buyers guide explains the differences between several tilling machines. Tillers, in general, use blades and an engine to break up sod, compacted soil, and other plant matter. The tines rotate forward or backward (depending on the model) while the operator controls the depth and speed of advancement. Some gardeners will till garden soil each spring to break it up and destroy any weeds that might have grown. Other gardeners use it to prepare a garden bed where one wasn’t initially present.
Tilling is fast. That is the main benefit. It is fast and efficient because it doesn’t require too much physical labor (depending on the specific machines used), and the entire garden bed can be prepared in a matter of minutes. The other great benefit is that any plant matter on top of the soil, including sod, gets mixed into the soil and therefore becomes organic matter as it decomposes. It will then feed the crops you plant during the following months. Tilling is also a great way to incorporate soil amendments into your garden bed, whether it's a new bed or an existing one.
Rototilling is harsh and can disrupt soil structure, soil microbes, and earthworms. If you didn’t have great soil to begin with, this is not an issue. This option is the most expensive, whether you rent, purchase, or hire someone to do it for you. Tilling can also bring weed seeds to the surface that otherwise might not have germinated, thus increasing the amount of weeding that may need to be done. Mini-cultivators and front-line tillers, the two most common types of tillers for home gardeners, are a bit unwieldy. They require a significant amount of physical control to guide the tines and break up the soil properly. They can easily get stuck, go too far out of line, and not go deep enough in the soil if not properly controlled. It takes some practice to use them effectively.
Depending on your situation, you can buy, rent, or hire a tiller. The mini-tillers and front-line tillers are the least expensive options, but they can still cost a few hundred dollars, depending on the brand. Places like United Rentals and Home Depot often rent rototillers to people for under $100. So, if you only plan on doing this once or twice, I recommend that option. If you need a garden bed quickly but don’t have the physical strength to operate a rototiller, I recommend hiring someone who owns a tiller to do the job for you. If you do that, the rest of these instructions may not apply.
Call 811 Dig at least 3-4 days in advance to have all utility lines within your planned work area identified. Be sure to avoid any irrigation lines for sprinklers, underground wires, and other obstructions that are near the path of your tiller.
Use spray paint or chalk to mark out the size and shape of your desired garden bed. Be sure to give a breadth of around 4 feet from anything you want to avoid hitting during the tilling process. I caution against using physical markers such as stakes, string, or tape because they could get caught in the tiller’s blades. Remove any rocks, sticks, and other debris.
Use your mower or a weed wacker to cut the grass down as low to the ground as possible. This makes it easier to till into the soil. Leave the grass clippings on top of the grass, though, so they can get mixed into the soil! This will provide nitrogen to future plants once it decomposes.
If you plan to incorporate other soil amendments into the garden bed, you have two options: either during the initial tillage or as a second tillage. If you have a thick layer of sod or heavily compacted soil, I recommend making a second pass to incorporate any soil amendments, ensuring it is not too difficult to get the machine deep enough. If you have patchy grass or just some weeds, it is possible to lay the soil amendments on top of the earth and then go at it in one sweep to till the earth and amend the soil simultaneously. Check out our blogs about soil amending if you’re unsure where to start.
Following the instructions and wearing any necessary personal protective equipment specified for your specific machine, place the rototiller on top of the soil in your soon-to-be garden bed, start it up, and till away! As mentioned before, you must use your whole body to control most rototillers. Some of the larger tillers are easier to use, such as rear-line tillers (also the most expensive), which don’t require quite as much physical control but still need all your attention to ensure they function properly and don’t till up some grass you wanted to keep. You want to till around 1 foot deep depending on how compacted your soil layers are.
When to plant is a bit of a balancing act. On one hand, weed seeds that have lain dormant in the soil may now start to germinate as they are exposed to light, water, and warmer temperatures. To help prevent new weeds from forming, consider planting soon after tilling to avoid excessive weeds and soil compaction from returning. There is also some benefit to allowing your tilled area to rest for 2-3 weeks before planting, especially if you have incorporated grass clippings and other green materials as soil amendments. It takes at least 2-3 weeks for the decomposition process to progress past the point of tying up vital nutrients within the soil. Planting into too much living material may leave your new seedling starved for nutrients during this process. In this case, you may want to cover your new planting area with a layer of clean straw mulch to block out light and prevent new weeds from growing while the cut-up plant matter begins to decompose.
1 comment
You apparently haven’t done much tillage. To get down a foot is not possible with walk behind front or rear tillers. Even with my tractor mounted 5 ft Howad Rotavator is not possible . You need moldboard or chisel plowing with a bigger tractor. You might trying a horse with a 16 single bottom but to get to 12 inches would be difficult.